Choosing a Sunscreen

Choosing the right sunscreen for YOU: Navigating the numerous Options

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure can account for up to 80-90% of how our skin looks and functions as we age. We call this photoaging - the process that occurs when UV radiation from the sun causes damage to our skin over time. This can increase our risk for skin cancer, but also increases wrinkles, pigmentation changes and makes our skin texture rougher. These changes can make our skin appear older than it really is. Thankfully, a lot of this risk can be attenuated by adjusting our behaviour - avoiding peak sun times, wearing clothing that covers and protects us, and by wearing sunscreen. 

We always recommend a daily sunscreen with broad-spectrum UVA/B protection - even when it’s cloudy! With a vast array of options on the market, it can be daunting to make your choice. Not only do we want something that works, many of us care about how it looks and feels on our skin, as well as the potential environmental impact of our choices. Balancing these factors will be individual to each person and there’s not necessarily a “perfect” sunscreen for everyone. 

To understand how we might pick our perfect sunscreen, we want to understand how they work and what our options are. Not all sunscreens protect equally.

How do sunscreens work?

The major function of sunscreen is to protect against UV radiation. There are two forms of UV rays, distinguished by wavelength. UVA is our long-range waves. They are lower energy waves that penetrate the dermis of the skin and cause damage to our collagen. This is a factor in skin aging and tanning. UVB, on the other hand, are shorter waves with higher energy, responsible for burning. Both can contribute to cancer formation. Until recently, many formulations focused on UVB rays, missing out on the protection from UVA rays. Thankfully, we now have a variety of options to choose from that provide full protection. 

Sunscreens are generally classified by how they “filter” the UV rays - we think of them as either physical or chemical (or a combination of both). A physical filter is usually mineral - think, zinc oxide or titanium dioxide - that reflect the rays to protect us. Chemical filters, on the other hand, absorb a small spectrum of UV radiation and convert it into heat energy via a chemical reaction as their way of dissipating that energy and protecting us. 

Physical sunscreens

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have been shown time and time again to provide the most comprehensive protection for all skin types. They are stable, safe and efficacious. Physical sunscreens reflect UV radiation to protect us. Although these physical filters provide the best protection, when zinc oxide is  used alone in a formulation, they can be thick and leave a white cast that looks pasty on our skin. Titanium dioxide is a little better and can be micronized for easier application (and appearance) but even still, with darker skin tones, it’s probably still going to be visible. 

Chemical sunscreens

Chemical filters absorb a small spectrum of UV radiation and convert it into heat energy via a chemical reaction. Because each chemical has a small spectrum of what they can absorb, we usually have to combine a few of them to provide enough protection. Avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate are the most common. Oxybenzone and octinoxate are ingredients found in many beauty products - including lotions, balms and even shampoo.  Only avobenxone and oxybenzone absorb UVA responsible for aging. Chemical sunscreens tend to be more alluring from a cosmetic standpoint as they go on easier and don’t leave a white cast. 

Should I be worried about chemicals?

The potential downside with some of these chemical options is the concern around hormone disrupting and allergenic factors. Oxybenzone - specifically benzophone-3, was largely responsible for the naming of benzophones as contact allergens back in 2014. We (and the American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists) recommend avoiding oxybenzone in pregnancy due to the evolving data around its safety. The research isn’t sufficient enough to say whether these chemicals make a difference to the average person but there are limits set for how much is allowed in personal care products.

Ultimately, the decision and the answer for the best sunscreen for you is one that you feel comfortable in and will remember to apply daily. It will come down to your personal needs. More sensitive skin or pregnant? It may make sense to opt for a zinc or titanium-based option. Can’t decide and might want to merge the benefits? There are options that use a combination of chemical and physical filters to offer a product that is both wearable and provides good protection! 

At Crafted Balance we retail Elta MD Sunscreen. These product uses a physical zinc oxide to block UVA/UVB rays providing broad spectrum protection, and is made in combination with hyaluronic acid. We find it is a good mix of protective, but wearable for every day use or under make up. Check out our skin care shop for different sunscreen options and other skin care products, or ask for a sample at your next visit!.

More questions about skin health and optimal aging? Book a complimentary meet and greet appointment with one of our Naturopathic Doctors today to learn more about how we can help you curated a crafted health plan!