Retinols: the 101
Retinols & Retinoids: Understand why they work, who should use them and what you need to know about getting started.
Retinols are a popular skin care product to reduce acne, reduce the signs of aging and improve collagen giving your skin a fresh appearance. The “purge” is a phenomenon many people experience after starting a retinol product that can result in an increase in blackheads, acne lesions, and rashes.
To understand why this happens, and how to prevent it, we dive in on the science behind retinols and retinoids.
What is a retinol? What is a retinoid?
Retinols are derivatives of vitamin A that are used topically on the skin, and can be found in many commercially available products.
Retinoids, a “cousin” of retinols is a similar vitamin A derivative, and is found in prescription strength products. They have a higher concentration of the active retinoid ingredient, making it more effective, but also more irritating and with higher frequency of side effects.
How to retinoids work?
When we use a retinol or retinoid product, it decreases the “stickiness” of our skin cells, increasing cell turn over. This causes an expulsion of any of the products that are in our pores (which form whiteheads and blackheads). It’s one of the most effective topical products at removing white heads the stick cell products that form pimples and clog pores (although it does take sometime for existing acne spots to respond).
For wrinkles - retinoid products activate a molecule called glycosaminoglycan. It is responsible for supporting collagen (which provides support and structure to the skin) and elastin (which provides stretchiness, and recoil to the skin). Glycosaminoglycan is also a potent hydrator of the skin - it can hold over 1000x its weight in water.
Hydration, a strong structure, and elastic recoil are all protective factors against wrinkles, sagging skin and skin damage, so we definitely want more glycosaminoglycan in our skin.
How do I start using a retinol product?
If you want to harness the benefit that retinols and retinoids have for skin, going slow and low makes sense for most people to avoid irritation symptoms, or the “purge”.
The “purge” which is an increase in acne, black heads, peeling skin, and rashes is real phenomenon, as your skin adjusts to the product. It often occurs for about 10-14 days as your skin adapts.
To avoid severe symptoms, it is recommended to start with a low with a low dose potency product (likely something commercially available) and to go slow with your application (space out the frequency of when you use it) to allow your skin to adapt.
When should I apply it?
Apply retinol products at night before bed.
What else do I need to know?
You may need to reduce the use of chemical exfoliant products (such as benzoyl peroxide or glycolic acid) at the same time of retinols/retinoids.
Most importantly always use them in conjunction with a SPF products. This is because retinol and retinoid products decrease the number of cell layers in our skin, (from 15nm to 5nm) making us more susceptible to damage from UV rays (which is counter intuitive to the anti-aging and anti-acne action we are trying to get!). You should be using a product with at least SPF 15, but we recommend something with SPF 30 daily.
Who shouldn’t use retinols and retinoids?
While most people can tolerate commercial retinol products (which the appropriate adaptation, and strength), we don’t have any established safety data for the safety of these products in pregnancy.
Additionally, if you are finding commercial products too harsh for you you can always switch to something gentler that has proven benefit, like glycolic acid.
I need more help
Looking for additional support for your acne or other skin concerns? Book a complimentary meet and greet with one of our naturopathic doctors to learn more about how we can support your skin and overall health.